Testimonials

Testimonials

There have been many deeds and incidents that the YMC have been involved in that are no doubt long forgotten, this is a great shame. Perhaps modesty is a reason why some events have not been recorded, eventually memories have to be called upon, but what when the memory men have gone on the last great expedition, does anybody care? Perhaps not now, but experience has shown that attitudes change, people are interested, and not only club members.

Because of this, and from my limited knowledge here are some facts that are not well known, but in another fifty years time could be of interest to a club historian. There are also sections of reviews for the club guidebooks.

If you know more don't keep it to yourself, get it down on paper. It can be stored in the club archives and used in the next journal!

  • After John Midgley's death, a collection was held and a substantial sum of money collected. This was donated by Tina, on behalf of the YMC to the BMC who used the contribution to purchase a Limestone crag, Earl Sterndale, in Derbyshire.
    This is a pleasant little crag, perhaps we ought to have a club meet there.
  • An opportunity arose through links with Mal Duff to hold a slide show for the club. This was held at the Ian Clough Memorial Hall and the proceeds donated to the BMC.
    At first, this was to be used to buy a campsite near Chamonix, hut when this fell through it was felt more appropriate to use it nearer home, and so, Rockhall Cottage at the Roaches is being purchased.
  • The club has always supported the mountain rescue teams but one member, Alan Morrison, who was the winner of an extremely difficult quiz run by High magazine, donated the cash part of the prize, some £300, to the Coniston Mountain Rescue team. The Golden Peg he received becoming the award for the club slide competition.
  • A recent tragedy was the death of Dave Stott, again a collection was held and the money is being donated to a mountain rescue team.

The club can boast several famous personalities amongst its past and present membership.

  • Arthur Dolphin, past president and a leading Yorkshire and Lake District pioneer, renowned for his hard climbing, tragically died in the Alps.
  • Ian Clough, who made his reputation on rock, snow and ice in Scotland, also climbed with Bonnington and Whillans. making several important first British ascents. Ian was killed on Annapurna, the Ian Clough Memorial Hall in Baildon being named in his honour.
  • Alan Austin, another leading climber whose routes still hold an awesome reputation for difficulty now owns a climbing shop in Bradford.
  • John Dunne, one of the new breed of climbers, put up many new hard routes, New Statesman at Ilkley, E8 7B being acclaimed the hardest route in Yorkshire at the time. John also owns a climbing shop in Bradford.
  • Graham Desroy, probably the only person to be press ganged into the club, is a leading exponent on our local grit and limestone crags, but also edited the guides which are used as a standard for others to aspire to. Graham is also a partner in D.R. climbing walls, which are constructed worldwide.
  • Brian Evans, another pioneer, no longer a club member, but is the author of the very popular ‘Scrambles in the Lakes’ guides.

No doubt there are those who I have missed out, but this only emphasises the need to record events for future reference. Not all members are famous for their deeds, but make a valuable contribution to the climbing world.

  • George Steele, was chairman, and still is a BMC representative on the UIAA Safety and Technical committee. His works help maintain the high quality of climbing hardware available.
  • Ken Tilford has served on the Yorkshire and Humberside Committee of the BMC for ten years as access officer and helped formulate policy on many of the issues presently affecting climbing.

Lastly, not forgetting our club and committee who run the club with a policy to benefit all mountain people through the value offered in use of our hut and guides.

SOME EXCERPTS FROM GUIDE REVIEWS.
Neil Foster on the 1985 Limestone Guide
— or as Neil put it RKSHI MESTO (see front cover).
This guidebook and the onslaught have changed the face of Yorkshire climbing for good (and bad). … This guidebook is a tremendous blend of information, entertainment and hard hitting home truths.
Bill Birkett on the 1987 Limestone/Gritstone Supplement
This is an indispensable supplement if you wish to locate some of the technically hardest climbs in Britain.
Nat Allen on the 1989 Gritstone Guide
You are to be congratulated on its productions, it's a great read. My congrats to ‘Streaky’ and his team.
Ken Crocket on the 1989 Gritstone Guide
This was my kind of guide, one of the most entertaining guidebooks ever. The diagrams are excellent, a useful, innovation is the introduction of ‘P’ grades. Much as it irks me to further intlate the chauvinistic self regard endemic in Yorkshiremen, I have to say this is one of the very best climbing books I have seen, modern but with a soul, a credit to Graham Desroy and the YMC.
Dave Pegg on the 1989 Gritstone Guide
It was with some trepidation that I examined my mail this morning, “what was this strange brick shaped parcel?” … This must be the largest guide ever produced, there are more crags described in here than ever before. … In my opinion, what sets this guide head and shoulders above the rest are the excellent bouldering sections. … The guide has excellent and well researched historical sections, first ascents lists, interspersed with amusing quotes to keep you entertained. In conclusion the YMC have made one of the biggest U-turns in history. This guide, like her limestone sister, should become a milestone, setting the standard for other areas to emulate.
Steve Bancroft on the 1989 Gritstone Guide
It makes the new Stanage seem a mere pamphlet, (and I must say I prefer the spine) I thought it was a nice touch to have one of the late John Syrett routes on the front. More important is what’s inside and what’s inside this book is excellent.
Finally, Frank Wilkinson on the 1989 Gritstone Guide
The best Christmas present you could buy the climber in your life. This has been a tremendous achievement by a dedicated team of 50 climbers (not one of whom is called Dennis Gray) and I think the climbing public will agree by rushing it out of print by next week. (Ed: they very nearly did!)

So there we have it, a bit of trumpet blowing, but if there are any gaps or inaccuracies, and you feel strongly enough to say anything, put it down on paper and pass it on, I'll get it right next time.

Ken Tilford

From The YMC Journal 1992